A Practical Guide to Heritage Wheat Varieties Grown in Canada

The term "heritage grain" covers wheat varieties that predate the intensive breeding programs of the 20th century — primarily the Green Revolution crosses of the 1950s and 1960s that optimized yield, nitrogen response, and harvest efficiency. In Canada, heritage wheat cultivation spans a small but documented acreage, concentrated in Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, and parts of British Columbia.

This article covers the five varieties most commonly found in Canadian artisan flour channels: einkorn, emmer, spelt, khorasan wheat, and Red Fife. For each, the focus is on agronomic characteristics relevant to Canadian growing conditions, the nature of the flour produced, and how Canadian mills and farms are currently working with them.

Einkorn (Triticum monococcum)

Einkorn is the oldest domesticated wheat, carrying a diploid genome (14 chromosomes, AA). Modern bread wheat is hexaploid (42 chromosomes), a complexity that arrived through centuries of hybridization. Einkorn's simpler genetic structure means it has not been substantially altered by breeding since its domestication in the Fertile Crescent roughly 10,000 years ago.

In practical terms, einkorn grows as a winter or spring annual reaching 90–120 cm, taller than modern dwarf wheats. The taller straw is both a liability (lodging in wind or heavy rain) and an advantage (competitive against weeds in organic systems). The grain is tightly enclosed in a persistent hull that must be removed through a separate dehulling step after harvest — this increases processing cost but protects the grain and enables organic cultivation with fewer inputs.

Einkorn in Canadian Growing Conditions

Canadian einkorn cultivation remains small-scale. The Organic Federation of Canada documents fewer than a dozen farms growing certified einkorn as of 2024, mostly in Ontario and Saskatchewan. The variety's cold tolerance is adequate for Prairie conditions, though its late-season drought sensitivity requires attention in years with low July rainfall.

Flour milled from einkorn contains higher concentrations of carotenoids than modern wheat, giving it a notably yellow colour. The carotenoid content — primarily lutein — is relevant to nutritional discussions, and is the focus of ongoing research at the University of Manitoba's Department of Food and Human Nutritional Sciences. Einkorn gluten is functional but weaker than bread wheat gluten; bread made with 100% einkorn flour is denser and typically requires longer fermentation to develop adequate structure.

Emmer (Triticum dicoccum)

Emmer is a tetraploid wheat (28 chromosomes, AABB), intermediate in genetic complexity between einkorn and modern bread wheat. It was the dominant wheat of ancient Egypt and Rome, and continued in cultivation in parts of Ethiopia, Italy, and Turkey through the 20th century while disappearing from most of Europe and North America.

The revival of emmer in Canada began primarily through organic and specialty flour producers seeking grains with documented nutritional profiles and distinct flavour. Emmer's protein content ranges from 14–18% depending on soil and season — higher than most modern wheat varieties — and its starch structure digests more slowly in laboratory models, though clinical studies in human populations remain limited.

Emmer Flour Characteristics

Stone-milled emmer flour is darker and coarser than commercial whole wheat, with a pronounced nutty, slightly earthy character. It performs well in flatbreads, pasta (the grain's traditional use in Italian farro pasta), and dense loaves with extended fermentation. Milling emmer to fine white flour is possible but removes much of what distinguishes the variety; most Canadian artisan millers sell emmer as whole grain or high-extraction flour (80–90% of the grain retained).

Quebec-based farm Ferme des Quatre-Temps and several Saskatchewan producers supply emmer grain to small batch millers, though annual volume figures are not publicly reported by these operations.

Spelt (Triticum spelta)

Spelt is a hexaploid wheat genetically close to modern bread wheat, sharing the same AABBDD genome. This genetic proximity means spelt responds to soil and climate similarly to conventional wheat, making it more accessible to farmers transitioning from modern varieties. Its distinguishing feature, like einkorn and emmer, is the persistent hull enclosing each kernel.

In Canada, spelt growing is concentrated in Ontario, where several certified organic producers supply both grain and flour to the domestic market. Alberta has seen limited spelt cultivation, primarily through operations affiliated with the Rocky Mountain Bio-Ag cooperative. The Canadian Grain Commission lists spelt under its "other registered varieties" category, with no separate grade designation as of 2024.

Spelt's Flour Profile

Spelt flour has a mild, slightly sweet flavour profile compared to emmer or einkorn. Its gluten is extensible but less elastic than bread wheat gluten — meaning doughs made with spelt spread more easily but require careful handling to avoid overworking. Experienced bakers often blend spelt with bread wheat at 20–40% to gain flavour without sacrificing structure.

Spelt is frequently noted in discussions of wheat sensitivity. Some individuals who report discomfort with modern wheat find spelt more tolerable; however, spelt does contain gluten and is not appropriate for those with celiac disease. Health Canada does not classify spelt as a gluten-free grain.

Khorasan Wheat (Triticum turgidum subsp. turanicum)

Khorasan wheat is sold internationally under the trademark KAMUT®, a certification that requires certified organic production and identity preservation from specific growing regions. In Canada, KAMUT® production is concentrated in southern Alberta and Saskatchewan, where the grain has been grown commercially since the late 1980s following its introduction by Montana farmer Bob Quinn.

The grain produces large, amber kernels with roughly 40% more protein than modern wheat varieties by mass, along with elevated selenium content — a micronutrient that can be deficient in Prairie soils depending on geological origin. These figures are drawn from KAMUT International's published agronomic data, consistent with analyses published in the Journal of Cereal Science.

Identity Preservation and Flour Production

KAMUT® certification requires that grain be traceable from field to mill and that no hybridization or genetic modification occurs. Canadian khorasan flour is sold by several Prairie millers, including Highwood Crossing Foods near Aldersyde, Alberta, which has offered KAMUT® flour since 2001. The buttery flavour of khorasan flour makes it notable in pasta, cookies, and flatbreads, though its weaker gluten limits its use in high-hydration sourdough loaves without wheat blending.

Red Fife

Red Fife occupies a specific place in Canadian grain history. It was the dominant commercial wheat variety in Canada from the 1860s through the early 1900s, known for reliable winter hardiness in the Prairies. It was displaced by higher-yielding varieties — first Marquis in the 1910s, then the Green Revolution varieties after 1960 — and nearly disappeared from cultivation entirely.

The variety's survival is credited to Sharon Rempel of Lanigan, Saskatchewan, who received a small sample in 1988 and grew it out over several seasons. Red Fife is now registered with Slow Food International as a heritage variety of significance and is grown by an estimated 50–80 Canadian farms as of 2023, according to the Slow Food Canada heritage grain registry.

What Red Fife Flour Tastes Like

Red Fife is a red spring wheat with protein levels of 13–15%. Its flavour is fuller and slightly more complex than modern APF, with a characteristic earthiness that bakers often describe as reminiscent of freshly harvested grain. It performs well in sourdough, where its flavour compounds interact with fermentation acids, and in rye-blend loaves. Several Canadian bakeries — including Fife Bakery in Toronto and Uprising Breads in Vancouver — use Red Fife in regular production loaves.

For a direct comparison of einkorn, emmer, and spelt flour characteristics, including protein content tables and baking performance notes, see the grain comparison article.

Where to Find Heritage Grain Flour in Canada

Heritage grain flour is available through a small number of dedicated millers and through natural food retailers in major Canadian cities. Sources that maintain consistent availability include:

• Speerville Flour Mill (New Brunswick) — one of Canada's oldest organic stone mills, operating since 1983
• Flourist (Vancouver, BC) — whole grain flour milled from identifiable Canadian farm sources
• Highwood Crossing Foods (Alberta) — certified organic khorasan and spelt flour
• Brodflour (Toronto, ON) — stone-milled flours sourced from Ontario and Prairie farms
• Nunweiler's Flour Company (Saskatchewan) — heritage variety flour including Red Fife and emmer

Availability changes seasonally and by harvest year; contacting mills directly is the most reliable approach for current stock. Most of the above mills publish crop notes and source farm details on their websites, providing traceability that is not available through conventional retail flour channels.